1999 Toyota 4Runner Replace Timing Belt
The 1999 Toyota 4Runner comes with a 3.4L V6 engine, which is a freewheeling engine. This means that should the timing belt stretch past the scope of the tensioner, it is unlikely that the valves will hit the pistons and cause extensive damage. Toyota recommends replacing the timing belt every 90,000 miles, before it stretches too far. Once it stretches past the scope of the tensioner, the 4Runner will not start. It takes about three hours to replace the timing belt, and several special tools, available at any Toyota dealer, are required.
|Set of wrenches|
|Set of sockets|
|Crankshaft pulley holding tool handle No. 09330-0021|
|Crankshaft pulley holding tool No. 09213-54015|
|Puller No. 09950-50010|
Replace Timing Belt
- Disconnect the negative battery cable and lay it to the side, ensuring that it does not touch metal. Remove the engine splash guard using the appropriate socket. Put the drain pan under the radiator drain plug. Loosen the drain plug and allow the radiator to drain. If the drain pan is clean, you can reuse the antifreeze. Loosen the clamps on the upper radiator hose and remove the hose.
- Loosen the tensioners for the accessory drive belts. Lift the belts off the pulleys. Remove the radiator shroud, cooling fan and its coupling using the appropriate sockets. Unbolt the power steering pump and the air compressor, but leave the lines connected. Move both out of the way. Rotate the oil dipstick back and forth to work it out of the block.
- Remove the upper timing belt cover and the cooling fan bracket using the appropriate sockets. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt using the crankshaft pulley holding tool and the holding tool handle. Pull the crankshaft pulley off using the puller. Remove the lower timing belt cover using the appropriate socket, then pull the guide washer off.
- Install the crankshaft pulley bolt temporarily. Turn the crankshaft clockwise, using a socket and the crankshaft pulley bolt, until the timing marks line up. There are three timing marks. Each camshaft sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket have timing marks that line up at the 12 o'clock position. Line the dots on the camshaft sprockets up with the notches on the heads. Line the dot on the crankshaft sprocket up with the notch on the block.
- Remove the auto tensioner and the dust boot using the appropriate sockets. Lift the timing belt off the sprockets. Check the guide and tensioner pulleys to make sure they turn smoothly without noise or resistance. If they have resistance or make noise when spun in your hand, replace them. Check the auto tensioner for oil leakage. If the auto tensioner is leaking any oil, replace it. If you can push the pushrod on the auto tensioner by hand, replace the tensioner. Measure the pushrod. If the measurement does not fall between 0.39 and 0.42 inches, replace the auto tensioner. Check the timing marks once again.
- Orient the timing belt so that the arrow mark points away from the engine. Install the timing belt, starting at the right camshaft sprocket (as you are looking down at the engine), and working under the guide pulley, then over the top of the left camshaft. Bring the right side of the timing belt down behind the water pump pulley, then around the crankshaft sprocket and behind the tensioner pulley. Keep hand tension on the timing belt on the right side, away from the tensioner.
- Insert the tensioner in a press. Press the pushrod in until the hole in the pushrod lines up with the hole in the auto tensioner body. Slide an Allen wrench in the holes to hold the pushrod in place. Install the auto tensioner and dust boot. Tighten the tensioner bolts evenly to 20 foot-pounds of torque.
- Remove the Allen wrench and allow the tensioner to put tension on the belt. Turn the crankshaft clockwise two turns, until the timing marks line up again. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. Install the rest of the parts in reverse order of removal. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 217 foot-pounds of torque. Tighten the radiator drain plug, then refill the radiator.